Lawns do not have to consist of only grasses, indeed they will be colonised by a variety of other plant species. A tolerant attitude will see this as an asset rather than a problem to be eradicated. For example, allowing clover (Trifolium spp.) to spread will feed the grass with nitrogen. The grass will therefore grow more strongly and will be a deeper green, and will not require artificial nitrogen fertilisers. Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) will also grow very well in the lawn, and is a valuable plant in its own right, being rich in minerals and greatly enriching the compost heap. It will also increase the vigour of grass and its resistance to disease. Yarrow also has medicinal properties, and if left uncut will produce beautiful white flowers. Daisies (Bellis perennis) will also brighten any lawn, often flowering even into the depths of winter, whilst another attractive lawn flower, the dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) has a wealth of uses, all parts are edible and it has medicinal properties. In addition its deep tap root will mine minerals from deep in the subsoil to be made available via the compost heap. Other valuable wild plants that will often make themselves at home in the organic lawn include chicory (Cichorium intybus), catsear (Hypochoeris radicata), melilot (Melilotus officinalis), salad burnet (Sanguisorba minor), plantain (Plantago spp.), rough hawkbit (Leontodon hispidus) and coltsfoot (Tussilago farfara).

If however weeds do become a problem, there are organic methods which can be used to control them, including;

Removal of individual weeds such as dandelions, daisies and plantain by hand, using an old kitchen knife or weed grubbing tool.

Fill in holes left after removing weeds with soil or potting compost, and sow fresh grass seed into this.

Avoid mowing too low, short grass offers less competition for weeds and can weaken it, making it easier for weeds to invade.

Scarify to remove debris and improve conditions for grass growth.

Ensure good drainage to prevent water-logging which will encourage moisture loving weeds and moss.

Moss can be a problem on some lawns, thriving in moist or waterlogged conditions, but also on drier soils where fertility is poor and acidity high (in particular, under evergreen trees). Moss will colonise in shady areas and spread over soil where the grass is mown too short. Moss does not withstand foot traffic as well as grasses, and trampled moss can result in bare soil and soil loss. Moss can be controlled by regular raking in spring and autumn. Bare patches should be re-seeded, and a poor lawn should be fed, for example with seaweed meal. In addition, mower blades should be raised to 2.5 cm (1”), drainage should be improved (see below) and limestone or dolomitic lime added to raise the Soil pH levels. Moss is valuable to birds as nesting material, so the wildlife conscious organic gardener may opt to leave some areas of mossy lawn for this reason.

Lawn pests

Lawn pests can include:

Leatherjackets (Tipula and Nephrotoma spp).

These softgreyishh black legless grubs growing up to 5 cm (2”) long are the larvae of thecraneflyy, and can feed upon grass roots, causing growth to become yellow and withered. They can be controlled by watering yellow areas and covering overnight with tarpaulin or sacking. Theleatherjacketss will come to the surface and can be picked off the following morning.

Ants (Lasiuss and Myrmica spp).

Ants can cause problems by building nests and mounds in the lawn, causing it to become unsightly and difficult to mow. They are very difficult to control, however pouring cold or boiling water onto troublesome colonies can go some way to reducing numbers. There are numerous species of ants, however, and many live in lawns without causing problems.

Moles.

Moles cause damage to the lawn by their tunneling actions, leaving mounds of earth which can make lawn mowing difficult and reducing valuable earthworm populations. Strong smells or the vibrations of electronic molescarerss can deter them, but trapping is the only effective permanent means of control.