Lawn Tennis

Grass courts are the second fastest type of tennis court (wooden courts, which were used in the past, and some current types of indoor surfaces, are actually the fastest). They consist of grass grown on very hard-packed soil, similar to golf greens (though AstroTurf which are hardly used in tennis are faster), which adds an additional variable: bounces depend on how healthy the grass is, how recently it has been mowed, and the wear and tear of recent play. Points are usually very short and the serve plays a more important role. Grass courts tend to favor serve-and-volley tennis players, such as John McEnroe or Martina Navrátilová. The most famous grass tennis court in the world is Centre Court at Wimbledon. The surface is less firm than hard courts, causing the ball to bounce lower, and so players must reach the ball faster. Serve and volley players take advantage of the surface by serving the ball and then running to the net to cut off the return of serve, leaving their opponent with little time to reach the low-bouncing, fast-moving ball. Due to high maintenance costs however, grass courts are now rare as they must be watered and mowed often, and take a longer time to dry after rain than hard courts.

On July 9, 2006, Roger Federer won his fourth straight Wimbledon title, extending his winning streak on grass courts to a record 48 matches. Federer is considered to be the best grass player currently playing.

The basics to building a court

To build a tennis court properly means a lot of work and it should only be attempted under the direction of some one who understands it. The things most important are good drainage, good light, and sufficient room. A double court is 36 feet wide by 72 feet long, but in tournament games or on courts where experts play it is customary to have an open space about 60 feet wide by 110 to 120 feet long, to give the players plenty of room to run back and otherwise to play a fast game.

A court should always be laid out north and south or as near these points of the compass as possible. In courts running east and west the sun is sure to be in the eyes of one of the players nearly all day; this is of course a very serious objection. While it is very pleasant to play tennis in the shade of a tree or building, a court should never be located under these conditions if it is possible to avoid it. A properly placed court should be fully exposed to the sun all day.

Cutting and Making Up The Grass With Lawn Mowers

First of all it will be necessary to decide whether a grass or "dirt” court is to be built. If the grass is fine and the place where the court is to be happens to be level, there is little to do but to cut the sod very short with a lawn-mower and to mark out the court. If, on the contrary, there is much grading or leveling to be done, a dirt court will be much cheaper and better in the end, as constant playing on turf soon wears bare spots. The upkeep of a grass court will be expensive unless it is feasible to move its position from time to time.

Choosing A Drainage For Your Court

Whatever the court is to be, the first question to consider is proper drainage. If the subsoil is sandy the chances are that the natural soakage will take care of the surplus water, but on the contrary, if the court is at the bottom of a hill or in a low place where clay predominates, it is necessary to provide some means of getting rid of the surplus water from rainfalls or our court may be a sea of mud just when it would be most useful to us.

To level a court properly we shall need the services of some one expert with a leveling instrument of some kind. It is not safe to depend on what seems to be level to our eye, as our judgment is often influenced by leaning trees, the horizon, and other natural objects. With a few stakes driven into the ground, the tops of which are level, we are enabled to stretch lines which will give us our levels accurately.